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I disliked the horrible smell of ABS too much, and it sort of reacted with the salt (or with the moisture in the salt?) and started to foam terribly the first two layers. So I will keep this "dilluted wood glue method" for high models or delicate prints that need cooling, and use the salt method for low and sturdy prints that can do without fans.įor ABS the salt method did not work, but I did not try very hard. Once I even pulled a big piece of glass out of the build plate. I have tried the dilluted wood glue method too for PET: this gives a stronger bonding than the salt method, so it could also be used with fans on, but it was way more difficult to remove the print after completion and cooling down. It is not perfect, but works good enough. Here, without salt, the PET is more difficult to remove when cold, so the salt somehow helps in releasing. Now it gives a reasonably strong bonding when hot, and very little when cold. But I had to increase build plate temp to 70☌ and use no fans. Maybe because it distributes the salt in finer drops than I could do with the sponge, so it gives a better covering? But this is a guess.įor PET I also got the salt method to work now. I don't know why, but a paper tissue works better than a sponge. No need to take the glass out of the printer, no need to clean it.
#Simplify 3d first layer height full#
Fans can be full on, as required for PLA. For ICE PLA the salt method still works, but no longer perfect: corners do slightly lift sometimes. This makes removing the parts very easy, as it requires no force at all. But not too much.įor colorFabb PLA/PHA and Ultimaker PLA this gives a very strong bonding when hot (60☌), and no bonding at all when finished and back at room temp. So there is a very thin and equal, but almost invisible mist of salt on it.
![simplify 3d first layer height simplify 3d first layer height](https://studia3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Снимок-экрана-2020-04-09-в-15.41.40.png)
(See the attached picture) The outer edges seem to grab hold just fine but the middle is not adhering to the bed. However, now I am seeing significant wrinkling of the first layer. By the way, I did find the leveling wizard to be pretty useful for those that didn't know about it. My original bed leveling was with a business card. I thought this could be a contributor so I did it using paper to represent 0.1 mm.
![simplify 3d first layer height simplify 3d first layer height](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0336/2894/6571/files/Layer_6182fd4c-fd21-4fdc-a2db-8c6f2a8903dc_600x600.jpg)
One of them was to ensure the bed was level using the Simplify 3D bed leveling wizard. I was reading some posts from others about warping on the corners of larger parts and saw some hints. Now I have graduated to larger parts and am starting to have some issues. I am a new M2 user and have been printing successfully for weeks using PLA.